The signs told us the hike would be 19k long, but according to my phone by the end of the day we'd done 32k (about 20 miles). However, there's always the possibility that my phone is full of it.
The night before embarking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing we had honest to goodness plans to go to bed early and get lots of rest before our all-day tramp. Then we started a puzzle with a couple of South Africans, and...we were up until 10:30 doing that puzzle. We're reckless.
We got up before dawn so we could drop our car off at the end of the trail and then take a shuttle to the beginning. I definitely recommend getting an early start. Apparently some people have done it in as little as 7 hours, but I'd be surprised if those people ever stopped to look around. It's hard work, so you might as well take your time and enjoy it. Given that we're not very fit, have a penchant for lots of mini picnics, and a tendency to wander, we took closer to 12 hours to complete the whole thing. Another good reason to get out early? Dawn over Mt. Ruapehu. For us it was all aquamarine with neon pink clouds that wisped over the mountains like a rooster's tail. Just unforgettable. It's the best thing I have ever wiped fog off a car window to see. (So far.)
What I don't recommend is going on Waitangi weekend. There were so many people on the track, and there were times, especially at the beginning, when we felt like cattle. I'd love to go again another time when there are fewer people out. Also, be prepared for really harsh sun. I needed sunglasses even before the sun crested over the mountains. Once it rose over the ridge I could barely see my feet in front of me. Until the sun got a little higher in the sky I could only take in the view if I hit a patch of shade or stopped and turned around, which always startled the herd.
That said, it was still an awesome experience.
The night before embarking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing we had honest to goodness plans to go to bed early and get lots of rest before our all-day tramp. Then we started a puzzle with a couple of South Africans, and...we were up until 10:30 doing that puzzle. We're reckless.
We got up before dawn so we could drop our car off at the end of the trail and then take a shuttle to the beginning. I definitely recommend getting an early start. Apparently some people have done it in as little as 7 hours, but I'd be surprised if those people ever stopped to look around. It's hard work, so you might as well take your time and enjoy it. Given that we're not very fit, have a penchant for lots of mini picnics, and a tendency to wander, we took closer to 12 hours to complete the whole thing. Another good reason to get out early? Dawn over Mt. Ruapehu. For us it was all aquamarine with neon pink clouds that wisped over the mountains like a rooster's tail. Just unforgettable. It's the best thing I have ever wiped fog off a car window to see. (So far.)
What I don't recommend is going on Waitangi weekend. There were so many people on the track, and there were times, especially at the beginning, when we felt like cattle. I'd love to go again another time when there are fewer people out. Also, be prepared for really harsh sun. I needed sunglasses even before the sun crested over the mountains. Once it rose over the ridge I could barely see my feet in front of me. Until the sun got a little higher in the sky I could only take in the view if I hit a patch of shade or stopped and turned around, which always startled the herd.
That said, it was still an awesome experience.
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing starts off pretty easy for the first hour or so, until you hit the stretch known as The Devil's Staircase. Hearing that name I imagined almost a sheer vertical climb, so when I saw the stairs were like those I'd seen on lots of hikes before, I thought the name was a bit over dramatic. I was being cocky. These stairs kicked my butt. They just go on and on! Further down the track there's a part that involves hoisting yourself on a chain along slippery rocks, and I had an easier time doing that than climbing these stairs. Thankfully after that the trail flattens out for a while as you pass through this ashen, sort of martian-feeling valley. The ground gives a little under your feet like a mix of sand and...maybe styrofoam? It's hard to find something to compare it to without saying, "it was like a volcano."
The weather was nice and clear as we were passing Mt. Ngauruhoe, but then, as if it knew we were watching, dark clouds began building over the summit. I think this mountain's a bit of a show off.
We were able to stay ahead of the weather for most of our hike, and it was amazing to be able to see it moving over the landscape. There was a point, about where we reached Red Crater, when I could actually see patches of rain coming down in the distance. It eventually caught up with us around the Emerald Lakes, but luckily the rain was sporadic and we didn't get too wet. Plus, seeing it pucker and ripple the surface of the green water was pretty cool.
The walk down to the lakes is really steep and it's all loose earth, so slipping around is inevitable. It's not very kind to your knees and you will get rocks in your shoes. That's just a fact. Although this is probably a terrible and dangerous idea, I couldn't stop thinking about how much fun it would be to sled down instead.
After the lakes the crowds thinned out. Although it's posted as a one-way hike, I saw a lot of people turn back the way they came. As long as the weather isn't too wet, I could see that going fine, although you do miss out on some beautiful stuff by going back early. The rest of the hike isn't as famous as the first half, but it was honestly the part I enjoyed most. Maybe it was relief at not being around so many people, or it could have just been refreshing to see land looking kind of green again after so much volcanic rock. There are some stunning steam vents, gold and grey colored streams, and it's such a nice, gentle slope down that it feels really relaxing by comparison. Eventually the plants grow thicker, the trees get taller, and you're back in the familiar world.
Then you realize how exhausted you are.
After the lakes the crowds thinned out. Although it's posted as a one-way hike, I saw a lot of people turn back the way they came. As long as the weather isn't too wet, I could see that going fine, although you do miss out on some beautiful stuff by going back early. The rest of the hike isn't as famous as the first half, but it was honestly the part I enjoyed most. Maybe it was relief at not being around so many people, or it could have just been refreshing to see land looking kind of green again after so much volcanic rock. There are some stunning steam vents, gold and grey colored streams, and it's such a nice, gentle slope down that it feels really relaxing by comparison. Eventually the plants grow thicker, the trees get taller, and you're back in the familiar world.
Then you realize how exhausted you are.